Journal
Eating, drinking and going out in Athens
Guides worth reading before you decide where to go.
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Brazil in Athens What cachaça actually is Not rum, despite what most bars imply. The single production step that separates them, what the words on the label mean, and how to drink the stuff.
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Athens nights Athens after midnight How a late night in this city actually works, why the timings surprise visitors, and where the eastern neighbourhoods fit.
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Occasions Brunch on the Pangrati side What the weekend looks like east of the centre, when the eggs stop, and why the first hour is the good one.
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Ilisia & Brazil Square Eating near Conrad Athens and the Megaron What to do about dinner when you are staying at the Conrad or have tickets at the Megaron, and the timing problem nobody mentions.
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Occasions The team dinner problem Why most company dinners go wrong in the same three ways, and what to check before booking one in Athens.
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Occasions Choosing a birthday venue in Athens Six things worth checking before you book anywhere, and honest answers for this room including the one we will not give you by email.
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The kitchen Ceviche, tiradito and sashimi Three ways of serving raw fish that are not the same thing. What separates them, and which two we actually serve.
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The kitchen Picanha, and where it sits on a Greek table The Brazilian cut most butchers here divide into something else, how we cook it, and what to order beside it.
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The kitchen What Brazilian sushi actually is Cream cheese, mango and passion fruit in a maki roll. Where that comes from, and what it looks like on our list.
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Ilisia & Brazil Square Brazil Square, and what is actually on it A short guide to Plateia Vrazilias in Ilisia: the park, the shade, the hours, and where to leave the car.
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Athens nights Shisha in Athens, explained honestly What is actually in a water pipe, what the water does and does not do, where the law allows it, and the two on our list. Including the part most pages skip.
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Ilisia & Brazil Square Eating after the Panathenaic Stadium The Kallimarmaro empties all at once and the streets around it are mostly closed. Where to eat afterwards, and why the timing is the whole problem.
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The kitchen Tequila and mezcal, and why they are not the same One plant family, two very different spirits. What the agave, the oven and the words blanco, reposado and anejo actually tell you before you order.
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Brazil in Athens Brazilian coffee, and why it is filtered Greece is an espresso country. Brazil is a filter country. What coado does that a machine cannot, and why there is a jug of it on an Athens menu.
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Ilisia & Brazil Square Parking near Brazil Square, honestly Ilisia is residential, so the kerb fills by eight. Where the nearest garage is, why the 24 hour part matters, and what we can and cannot tell you.
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Athens nights What Noche Tropical actually is The hour the restaurant becomes something else, the bands, the terrace, and an honest explanation of why there is no weekly schedule printed anywhere.
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The kitchen Vegetarian in a South American restaurant The grill gets the attention, but the continent's larder is mostly plants. What is actually on the vegetarian section, and the questions worth asking.
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Brazil in Athens Why there are bao buns on a South American menu A Chinese bun, a Japanese Brazilian century and a menu that switches language halfway through a dish name. The honest answer to a fair question.
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Ilisia & Brazil Square Getting to Ilisia, from wherever you are staying The quarter most visitors pass without entering. Where Ilisia actually is, how to reach it from Syntagma, Kolonaki or the airport, and how long it takes.
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The kitchen South American wine, and where to start with it Mendoza, Patagonia, Maipo, Curico. What the South American half of an Athens wine list is actually offering, and what to order it with.
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Occasions Booking a table in Athens: what helps Four ways to book, what to say when you do, and the one sentence that gets a table held. Written by people who take the bookings rather than make them.
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Brazil in Athens Moqueca, Brazil's great coastal dish A coastal stew older than most national cuisines, built on coconut, palm oil and a clay pot. What moqueca is, and why it is the counterweight to the grill.
